Difficulty
Moderate
Steps
7
Time Required
12:00:00 - 20:00:00
- D300VS Plus Build Notes 7 steps
In Progress
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User-Contributed Guide
This guide is not managed by the site's staff.
Introduction
It is difficult to make a guide on a machine that always being improved on, I want to make this guide to be more general and point to specific sub guides depending on what you have or choose.
At this time I am still building my 'Plus" and listing the differences from the D300VS Build Guide as I go.
I was following the D300VS guide when I am trying to build the 'D300VS Plus' and found I was redoing things because of the differences. might be a good idea to print it out so you can write on it and cross off what not to do.
All Guides can be found here: D300VS Build Guide
Below steps are differences The D300vs Plus had from this guide
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Bottom Frame - there is a step to add 3 t-nuts to top slot of X rail. add an extra one to have 3 on Z too. This is because the wire whip might go to the right depending on how you like to orientate The Aero Titan or maybe want to mount a lamp or camera on the other.
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Tower height is different, don't cut T-slot covers at the time of endstop wiring. do it later (TBD)
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after installing LED wiring, you might want to add tape or dull the sharp edge where wire comes down out of vertical extrusion. I believe over time it will cut through the insulation shorting it.
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Install the top on the towers FLUSH, because the belt tensioning is done on the carriage now.
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If you plan on mounting the Paneldue, add 2 t-slot nuts to the slot facing up on the Y assembly of the top cross frame member (Steps 18 & 19).
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This is the carriage on the 'Plus'.
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Carriage assembly: see this guide DRAFT... D300VS-PLUS Ball Cup Adjustable Carriage Assembly
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The tensioner is on the top and belt tip should be flush in it. Excess will be on the other end.
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The tensioner needs to be mostly in the dovetail grove and never stick out more than 1mm, it will hit the endstop bracket not triggering the endswitch.
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The EasyTension App may or may not work for you (depending on phone?) . Or if you have a good ear, listen to what it sound like , on this website OnlineToneGenerator set to 39Hz
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a tool to help make all belts the same tension https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:223059...
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see second photo for how to get tool on bolt to adjust tension.
One thing I found was to pluck low by the carriage at the bottom. Just like a base guitar would. The whole belt should resonate at the same freq regardless of where it was initiated. I get a more pure tone like that. Unfortunately, I’m only up to 34hz so far. I have to try to slip 2 more teeth through to get to 39 I guess.
Update! So I go to 38 now. I started with the belt locked in the carriage when the moving part was half it’s thickness installed in the dovetail. Then to get the screw to engage the nut I squeezed it into place and gave the screw a few turns. Once it was slightly below flush it hit 38hz. So a few more turns should get me to 39.
Well.'. at least you got the app to register a number for you. I clamped the belt into the adjustable portion… then looped it around the pulleys. Look at the set up as the toothed blocks fit into a taper on the skate.. it will make sense:}. With the top belt secured to the adjustable part of the skate… I wrapped the belt around the top pulley… and then then the bottom pulley. Next feed the belt up into the skate.. Grab the little toothed piece/ wedge thingy I wondered what the !&&* these were for..
Pull the belt, and press the wedge thingy in. you will hear a couple of pops or snaps. you will know the wedge went over the belts. As hard as I could pull,,, you can pull too hard.. make sure you do not pull a skate out of alignment. You should have no rock/play in the skate.. just like the guide says.
I built my D300 as an extended version, never got the app to register any Hz value. I wish it would have, my ears are old and worn. But my D300 works great without that app. Only cuz I couldn’t make it work.
I was never able to get it to work either.
If someone could make a video of this process, it would be super helpful. I couldn’t figure out how to get the belts properly pretensioned and still get it put together. I currently have the tensioners tightened to the max and the Easy Tensioner App is telling me that I’m getting about 30 Hz instead of the recommended. I’m sure I did something wrong (first complete build), but I can’t figure it out.
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Even though I had some experience with another board but, I still got confused, so many bits of information pointing different directions, mostly because I kept getting directed to 'Upgrade' forum posts. Use the Build Guide for details, but if you're getting overwhelmed take a break and see the notes below.
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1. Copy files to Duet SD card. Get and unzip The D300vs Plus firmware : from GitHub here
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2. Software on PC is needed to communicate with Duet board via USB. you will need to use this to send commands to it to get Duet to connected to your network and access web interface.
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This is the instructions for above 'Getting Connected to the Duet Wifi' Only read the content 1 & 2 , ignore the stuff for 1.18 and after, this is where my head jus .t . . . % ( #@!
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If your Duet already has RRF 1.19.2 installed you only need to copy the 4 folders from the latest 1.19.2 ZIP (gcode, macros, sys, www) onto the SD card installed on the Duet and restart/repower the controller. See the Duet Guide for instructions on getting the version and connecting via wifi
After installing 1.19.2 I needed to rename one of the files. Thanks to Gary for helping me with this in the facebook group, I haven’t seen it in any documentation and no one else has mentioned it.
I agree with the last point. Updating to the Ultibots firmware left me guessing after reading the above link. So I just downloaded the firmware for the PLUS and overwrote everything on the SD card. Seems to have worked. I do not have motion yet as I am waiting for some parts to arrive but the Duet interface shows the saved D300 gcode files.
Hopefully I do not need to do anything else.
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If you got the D300VS 'Plus', it comes with the Aero Titan.
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still in draft but see DRAFT... D300VS-PLUS Effector and Aero Titan Assembly
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do not over tighten the heatsink bolts, just barely snug, I found it binds the gear from turning. see more here https://e3d-online.dozuki.com/Guide/Tita...
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I had to go redo it. It was binding. I did not get pinion gear low enough, it looked flush but wasn't. you should be able to turn that big gear with your pinkie when assembled.
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Until the effector gets updated, check first! You will need to cut the 12mm bolt down to 10.5mm or get a M3x10 , also put 1 washers under each of the 4 long bolts. There was a bag with bolts, labeled M-FIX_AERO KIT, see third photo. but were too short.
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I extended my wires and probably did not have to, it was so close. If I did the wire support on effector as shown in photo above, it would of reached. Or it depends on which side you have the wire whip going.
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if you find your extruder stepper moving backwards edit the config.g, change M569 P3 S1 to M569 P3 S0
E3D gave me both 30 and 35mm bolts and I ordered my kit shortly before Gary.
Before assembling the extruder, check your bolts. E3D is somewhat inconsistent in which bolt sizes they include in the package. Some people get M3x35mm bolts, and others don’t. You’ll probably need 3 of them to secure the heatsink thru the extruder body into the stepper motor because the effector thickness where the extruder mounts is 4mm (and the E3D assembly assumes 2mm.)
This needs to be updated as the printers are no longer shipping with the Tusk part cooling part. I’ll try to give notes as I have time.
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Tusk part cooling :http://www.sublimelayers.com/2017/10/tus...
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the nuts didn't want to fit in recessed space on cooling duct but I used a short bolt to pull in it, plastic seemed to give and the nut did press in.
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Extruder feed calibrations: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Mnq5SfX...
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Simplify 3d Slicer settings, someone posted in forum: "For some reason, Simplify 3D defines the bed size for a Delta using the size of a square inscribed in the circle of the bed. The correct dimensions for the bed in S3D are 205 x 205 x 440 with the origin at 102.5, 102.5, 0."
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There are left over parts including connectors with pins that looks like it is for the duet, I was waiting to the end of my build to see if was called for and wasn't, I will be going back to install them.
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It's nice that these connectors locks in so it can not vibrate out. It would be very bad if one of the stepper motors gets disconnected while in operation, I know some stepper drivers will burn up with no load on them.
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New line.
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I want to help make it easier for next guy.
I want to help make it easier for next guy.
Cancel: I did not complete this guide.
3 other people completed this guide.
One Comment
Great help… I will incorporate your notes into the PLUS guide. Thanks - Brad
Adding the extra t-nut on the Z rail was a lifesaver. The original D300 guide has the wire guide for the whip only on the left (X-Z span) and with that orientation the heater cables were about an inch shot of the connectors. Moving the guide to right (Y-Z span) allowed everything to connect with no extensions.
Eric Santiago - Reply